Warfare - The Advanced Way :)

CaptSummers · Mar 5, 2009

This guide is for new players wanting to know how the game itself works battles out, how troops and stratedgies work together and some information for you to use for it!

Section 1 - Defence

There is a golden rule about how much defence you should have in each village.
This is very important

You should have at least half of your village's points in swords and same number in spears.

For example, if your village has 1000 points you should have 500 spears and 500 swords. Or if your village has 8000 points your should have 4000 spears and 4000 swords, as defence.

Bare in mind that this is the minimum. The more defence the better.

Obviously interchanging troops is possible, so having 2000 points, and following the ideology of having atleast half your points in troops depending on preference and if you do some work in the simulator, it could pay off to have 200 archers, 400 spears and 400 swords ect, but its upto your own preference.

BUT TAKE NOT - half of your points for the ammount of troops is MINIMUM REQUIREMENT, i do recommend you extend alot further than that!

For example:

DEFENCE #1

This should ideally be achieved before reaching 500 points in village size:
200 spears,
200 swords,
200 scouts,
Level 10 Wall
Level 10 Hiding Place (optional: if you can defend yourself, there's no point in building up the hiding place, but if you get a late start and are concerned about being farmed, build it!)

It is imperative to be able to defend yourself against attack. It is hard to contribute to your defence if you cannot be bothered having one!

DEFENCE #2
This should ideally be achieved before reaching 1000 points in village size:
500 Spears,
500 Swords,
500 scouts,
200 LC,
Level 15 Wall
From here on out, you should always maintain 50% of your points in village size in spears AND swords

DEFENCE #3
This should ideally be achieved before reaching 2000 points in village size:
1000 Spears,
1000 Swords,
1000 Scouts,
500 LC
Level 20 Wall
Continue to build 50% of your points in village size in spears and swords.
This is for the more advanced, and really should be achieved before taking on a second village. It makes absolutely no sense to take a second village if you cannot defend the first one.

As you grow your nation, you should have at least 1000 extra Spears and Swords to support any villages you capture without leaving yourself underdefended in your primary village.

HC are valuable for helping to support other villages, allies, tribesmen, whom are under attack as they get there quickly and are defensively strong. BUT, they are NOT point effective, and are resource heavy at the start of the game!

Remember though, as you grow, it is a good idea to seperate villages, have two or three villages based on defence, and 1 village based on offence, so for example if you get 10 villages, have 6-7 defencive and 3/4 offencive, so you have troops to defend and to attack. People may disagree on that being too defencive, but while you are learning the game keeping a 1:1 ratio will be hard to manage and you will most likely get rimmed, epecially if you are sustained and heavy attack then you wouldn't be able to produce troops as effectively.

I will update this when ive done more research with the newer troops i havent used much, archers and the such, from the stats they do look like a good defencive unit, but again, thats what simulator is for, find out what works for you!

Section 2 - Offencive units

Section 3 - Noblemen
BUILDING NOBLEMEN

Each Academy can only support the production of 3 noblemen maximum.

But everything with noblemen is cumulative – it adds up.

Your first nobleman costs: 28k/30k/25k (commonly refered to as a noble unit or NU); your 2nd is 2 NU; your 3rd, 3 NU . . . and where you build them will make NO difference to the cost.

You can store resources for building noblemen in your academy/ies. But be careful -- once resources have been sent to an academy, they can’t be withdrawn. The minimum you can transfer into an academy is ‘1 NU’ - 28k/30k/25k. The game servers will add together NUs from all of your villages, so you can produce the Noble where it is convient.

Finally, each nobleman requires another level of academy. These add up too. Your first requires just the one level, simple. Your 2nd requires 2 levels – anywhere. So, if you have 2 level 1 academies in 2 villages, you can build a 2nd nobleman; 3 level 1 academies in 3 villages - a 3rd nobleman, or a level 2 in one village and a level 1 in the another... it all adds up.

The only good thing is that you can choose where you want to build the next nobleman by making sure that there are enough resources stored in the academies. You can, however, produce as many nobles you want in whichever academy you want -- so long as you have the NUs stored to pay for them.

So demolishing any academy is a mistake. All it will do is reduce the number of nobleman you can create.

ATTACKING WITH NOBLEMEN

1. Never more than 1 nobleman in the same wave (when used together – they don’t add up). So put each nobleman in his own wave.

2. Always send troops at the same time, to keep the nobleman alive.

3. If you posibly can, avoid sending your attacking troops with a nobleman – he will die if 50% of the attacking force is destroyed. Clear the village of all resistance first, then start the noble and his escort off, always just behind (by seconds if possible) a wave of attacking troops in case of any support/rebuild at the target.

4. Destroying the rally point with a wave of catapults (and their support) will prevent him recalling any of his troops that are supporting other villages. (Of course if he can get in touch with them, they can release those supporting troops from their end.)

5. Using waves of catapults is another tactic that’s handy, as each force/wave can only target 1 building – so several waves of catapults can damage/destroy several different buildings.

DEFENDING YOUR NEW VILLAGE

Make sure you can keep the village because it will have low loyalty for 3 days.

100-25 = 75

Your newly acquired village gets 25 loyalty;
1 loyalty is regained per hour;
So 75 hours = 3 days 3 hours

obviously that is under the assumption the world is 1x, which i believe world 35 is 1.5? or so, so obviously would take less time, work it out and see

Check the village overview of your new village to see your loyalty on the right side.

It’s best to take over villages that have as many points as you can manage. But remember -- location counts, too. For some people, where a small village is might make it okay. You can just use the tiny villages for farms -- every resource helps.

Section 4 - Fakes

Section 5 - Trains

Section 6 - Sniping

Section 7 - Seige Warfare

These unit types are used in attacks in order to destroy the enemy's wall or some of his other buildings.
Rams destroy only the wall while the catapults can target any building you want (wall too) and destroy it.

Never send siege weapons alone when you attack.

Siege weapons only do damage to walls if they are followed by adequate troops.
In order to do full damage to the walls you have to win the fight. If you lose the fight completely then no damage is made. If all your troops are killed but you have managed to kill many of the enemies troops, then some damage is made to the wall (but not full damage).

For instance, take the case of 100 rams versus a level 20 wall around an undefended village. If you just send them alone, all the rams die and the wall takes no damage. But even with 50 axemen, the rams inflict their full damage (taking it to level 11) and are fine.
Now, if you add 1000 of each sword and spear in there defending, the rams will do no damage.

Rams and catapults themselves operate entirely independent of luck. However, luck affects the amount that you win the battle by, which in turn affects the amount of damage the siege engines can do to the wall.

If you have the rams and the catapults both target the wall, the rams "hit first" and then the catapults hit, doing damage based on the new, lower level of the wall.

Here are some charts of rams versus level 20 walls with "sufficient margin of victory," meaning the attacker wins enough that the rams can inflict their full damage:

Format is Rams:level wall reduced to

Ram
5:20
6:19
15:19
20:18
30:17
60:15
100:11
150:7
200:2
215:1
219:0

The following figures show the number of rams necessary to lower a wall by the specified amount, and the number of escorting soldiers needed to ensure that neither the rams or soldiers suffer casualties. (Remember to calculate morale before attacking, or you will suffer casualties!)

2 rams + 2 light = level 1 -> level 0
4 rams + 3 light = level 2 -> level 0
7 rams + 6 light = level 3 -> level 0
11 rams + 8 light = level 4 -> level 0
15 rams + 13 light = level 5 -> level 0
19 rams + 15 light = level 6 -> level 0
25 rams + 23 light = level 7 -> level 0
31 rams + 27 light = level 8 -> level 0

_______________________________________

2 rams + 2 light = level 1 -> level 0
2 rams + 4 light = level 2 -> level 1
2 rams + 9 light = level 3 -> level 2
2 rams + 20 light = level 4 -> level 3
2 rams + 36 light = level 5 -> level 4
2 rams + 60 light = level 6 -> level 5
2 rams + 93 light = level 7 -> level 6

______________________________________

3 rams + 2 light = level 1 -> level 0
3 rams + 2 light = level 2 -> level 1
3 rams + 4 light = level 3 -> level 2
3 rams + 9 light = level 4 -> level 3
3 rams + 36 light = level 5 -> level 4
3 rams + 60 light = level 6 -> level 5
3 rams + 93 light = level 7 -> level 6

______________________________________

4 rams + 3 light = level 1 -> level 0
4 rams + 3 light = level 2 -> level 0
4 rams + 4 light = level 3 -> level 2
4 rams + 9 light = level 4 -> level 3
4 rams + 20 light = level 5 -> level 4
4 rams + 36 light = level 6 -> level 5
4 rams + 60 light = level 7 -> level 6

The escorting troops are absolutely essential. And remember well defended villages will also require plenty of axes. Again check the simulator

Catapult ->
It take a certian number of catapults to knock ay building down one level.

For example:

2 catapults = level 1 -> level 0
6 catapults = level 2 -> level 0
10 catapults = level 3 -> level 0

This was calculates using the following table:
_________________________________

Minimum catapult attack (to make a target drop one level)
_____________________

Level 1 = 2 catapults
Level 2 = 2 catapults
Level 3 = 2 catapults

Level 4 = 3 catapults
Level 5 = 3 catapults
Level 6 = 3 catapults

Level 7 = 3 catapults
Level 8 = 4 catapults
Level 9 = 4 catapults

Level 10 = 4 catapults
Level 11 = 4 catapults
Level 12 = 5 catapults

Level 13 = 5 catapults
Level 14 = 6 catapults
Level 15 = 6 catapults

Level 16 = 6 catapults
Level 17 = 7 catapults
Level 18 = 8 catapults

Level 19 = 8 catapults
Level 20 = 9 catapults

(i forgot who did the catapult calcuation, but thanks

)

CaptSummers · Mar 5, 2009

ill update as i writeit!

DeletedUser48847 · Mar 5, 2009

Seems great for a general beginner guide. Keep going.

I'd still turn my first village into an offensive village, but I guess that's only personal opinions...

CaptSummers · Mar 5, 2009

ijje said:
Seems great for a general beginner guide. Keep going.

I'd still turn my first village into an offensive village, but I guess that's only personal opinions...

hence the beginner guide, its better to be a bit more defencive when you start, but its upto the person really

EstoyLoco · Mar 5, 2009

I guess so... although 2000 points with so many def troops... how will you take on another 2000 points with no offense in a world with no growing barbs?

How will you farm efficiently in the beginning .. how will you created yourself new farms? and surely how will you fight other big players around the farm your farms?

Thats my questions to such strategy... although the strategy you propose is for sure and by far the safest one to survive! Might jnot be the best to grow fast thought :S

Just my opinions though... Its a well done guide and well written to help players survive!

Estoy

CaptSummers · Mar 5, 2009

as i say, the guide is for new players, new players find the hardest part of the game when they start growing is to survive and not turn into nobles, there will be barbs from quitting players near them to farm, plus scouts give them the opportunity to check which inactive players near them have no troops, and they can farm them using their defence, which would still not occur losses but gain them resources easily. fast growth isnt neccessarily the best plan, anyone can build there buildings with the idea of gaining points and getting a noble, but as said whats the point nobling a village, when you then cant defend it, and when you try to split your army, both sides get wiped out and you've just given some player two farms

but again, if you think at THIS stage of the world, you think offence is the most important prospect, you'll have a big shock when you attack that village with double the defence of your offence, and your now being farmed by 1,000 swords and can do nothing about it! haha

DeletedUser · Mar 6, 2009

CaptSummers said:
as i say, the guide is for new players, new players find the hardest part of the game when they start growing is to survive and not turn into nobles, there will be barbs from quitting players near them to farm, plus scouts give them the opportunity to check which inactive players near them have no troops, and they can farm them using their defence, which would still not occur losses but gain them resources easily. fast growth isnt neccessarily the best plan, anyone can build there buildings with the idea of gaining points and getting a noble, but as said whats the point nobling a village, when you then cant defend it, and when you try to split your army, both sides get wiped out and you've just given some player two farms

but again, if you think at THIS stage of the world, you think offence is the most important prospect, you'll have a big shock when you attack that village with double the defence of your offence, and your now being farmed by 1,000 swords and can do nothing about it! haha

An offensive player will grow much, much faster than a defensive player due to the higher speed and farming capability of LC and more farming options being available. Its also a better mindset for a new player. Learning how to fight when you haven't invested much time in the game yet is better than learning how to fight when you've been playing for several weeks and are getting your ass handed to you.

Michael Corleone. · Mar 6, 2009

First village I go for mainly offense, but have a very, very small defense just in case one of my neighbors attempts to clear me. :icon_wink:

DeletedUser · Mar 6, 2009

Nice guide, but I'd avoid advocating upgrading your hiding place at all. It's worthless, through and through.

DeletedUser · Mar 6, 2009

Yes hiding place is really useless, just avoid it no matter.

armadillojoe · Mar 7, 2009

I wouldn't say hiding place is completely worthless. It's not later in the game when you can spare reasouces. If you upgrade it and you get attacked with rams, they won't steel all your reasources, so you'll have enough to upgrade your wall. But that's just my opinion.

armadillojoe · Mar 7, 2009

Early in the game it is worthless though.

DeletedUser · Mar 7, 2009

use 1:1 DEFENCE IN SWORDS AND ARCHERS(stupid caps lock) because they do better on fights mathametiaclly, and this is one of the rare cases math works. But HC defence can still work in these worlds.

DeletedUser · Mar 7, 2009

No spears? They're cheap, quick and great against LC.

But what I was wondering about is the fact there are 1000 scouts. Okay for some villages, but you can't seriously expect people to wast farm space on them when instead you could easily get a much better defense. Anyway, if the attacker wants to scout you enough, 1000 scouts just don't cut it.

CaptSummers · Mar 7, 2009

Hey thanks for the feedback, as i said this is just the basics for new players to get a grasp of the concepts of the game, not something to follow or word. knowing what sort of troops and number to have around is betteer than sitting and confusing them with the entire mathematics behind it!

i agree with the farming and LC, which is why i originally included 1,000 swords, 1000 spears and 500lc, the LC could aid in defence and farm those pesky villages around you!

Please find below the exact calculations mathematically set up for a fully build village

Here you have some notes about defence configuration.
Every defence configuration have good and bad points ... you have to choose

Spear fighter

The spear fighter is the most basic unit.
It is good in defending against cavalry and to start plundering other villages.

$unit\def.png$
General Defence [15] - 38%
$graphic\dots\red.png$

$unit\def_cav.png$
Cavalry Defence [45] - 138%
$graphic\dots\green.png$

$unit\def_archer.png$
Defence Archer [20] - 83%
$graphic\dots\green.png$

$graphic\unit\speed.png$
Speed - 18 minutes per field

Resources -

50

30

10

Swordsman

The swordsman is a relatively slow unit effective as defense especially against infantry.

$unit\def.png$
General Defence [50] - 125%
$graphic\dots\green.png$

$unit\def_cav.png$
Cavalry Defence [15] - 46%
$graphic\dots\red.png$

$unit\def_archer.png$
Defence Archer [40] - 167%
$graphic\dots\green.png$

$graphic\unit\speed.png$
Speed - 22 minutes per field

Resources -

30

30

70

Archer

The archer is a very effective defensive unit.
Their arrows destroy even the hardest armor.

$unit\def.png$
General Defence [50] - 125%
$graphic\dots\green.png$

$unit\def_cav.png$
Cavalry Defence [40] - 123%
$graphic\dots\green.png$

$unit\def_archer.png$
Defence Archer [5] - 21%
$graphic\dots\red.png$

$graphic\unit\speed.png$
Speed - 18 minutes per field

Resources -

100

30

60

Heavy cavalry

The heavy cavalry are your elite troops.
The noble knights have hardened weapons and strong armor.

$unit\def.png$
General Defence 33 - 83%
$graphic\dots\green.png$

$unit\def_cav.png$
Cavalry Defence 13 - 41%
$graphic\dots\red.png$

$unit\def_archer.png$
Defence Archer 30 - 125%
$graphic\dots\green.png$

$graphic\unit\speed.png$
Speed - 11 minutes per field

Resources -

200

150

600

----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

$unit\def.png$

$unit\def_cav.png$

$unit\def_archer.png$
Defence Configuration
$unit\def.png$

$unit\def_cav.png$

$unit\def_archer.png$

$unit\def.png$
Only Infantry - [1 : 1.3 : 1]
$unit\def.png$

6.200

8.000

6.200

$unit\def.png$
General Defence - 98%

$unit\def_cav.png$
Cavalry Defence - 98%

$unit\def_archer.png$
Defence Archer - 97%

$graphic\overview\farm.png$
Farm space: 20.400

* very good defence configuration against all type of units
* recruitment and support is very slow
* this configuration will need a lot of wood

$unit\def.png$
Only Infantry - [1 : 2 : 2]
$unit\def.png$

4.400

8.000

8.000

$unit\def.png$
General Defence - 106%

$unit\def_cav.png$
Cavalry Defence - 96%

$unit\def_archer.png$
Defence Archer - 92%

$graphic\overview\farm.png$
Farm space: 20.400

* very good defence configuration against axes
* recruitment and support is very slow
* this configuration will need a lot of wood

$unit\def.png$
Only Infantry - [2 : 2 : 1]
$unit\def.png$

8.000

8.000

4.400

$unit\def.png$
General Defence - 91%

$unit\def_cav.png$
Cavalry Defence - 99%

$unit\def_archer.png$
Defence Archer - 103%

$graphic\overview\farm.png$
Farm space: 20.400

* very good defence configuration against light cavalry and mouted archers
* recruitment and support is very slow
* this configuration will need a lot of wood

$unit\def.png$
Only Infantry - [1 : 1 : 1]
$unit\def.png$

6.800

6.800

6.800

$unit\def.png$
General Defence - 96%

$unit\def_cav.png$
Cavalry Defence - 103%

$unit\def_archer.png$
Defence Archer - 90%

$graphic\overview\farm.png$
Farm space: 20.400

* very good defence configuration against light cavalry
* recruitment and support is very slow
* this configuration will need a lot of wood

$unit\def.png$

$unit\def_cav.png$
Infantry and Cavalry - [1 : 1 : 1 and 0.07]
$unit\def.png$

$unit\def_cav.png$

6.000

6.000

6.000

400

$unit\def.png$
General Defence - 94%

$unit\def_cav.png$
Cavalry Defence - 95%

$unit\def_archer.png$
Defence Archer - 94%

$graphic\overview\farm.png$
Farm space: 20.400

* good defence configuration against all units
* recruitment and support is more or less slow
* this configuration will need more wood then iron

$unit\def.png$

$unit\def_cav.png$
Infantry and Cavalry - [2 : 1 : 2 and 0.3]
$unit\def.png$

$unit\def_cav.png$

6.000

3.000

6.000

900

$unit\def.png$
General Defence - 88%

$unit\def_cav.png$
Cavalry Defence - 95%

$unit\def_archer.png$
Defence Archer - 88%

$graphic\overview\farm.png$
Farm space: 20.400

* good defence configuration against light cavalry
* recruitment and support is fast
* for this configuration wood = iron

$unit\def.png$

$unit\def_cav.png$
Infantry and Cavalry - [2.5 : 1 : 2.5 and 0.7]
$unit\def.png$

$unit\def_cav.png$

5.000

2.000

5.000

1.400

$unit\def.png$
General Defence - 86%

$unit\def_cav.png$
Cavalry Defence - 86%

$unit\def_archer.png$
Defence Archer - 93%

$graphic\overview\farm.png$
Farm space: 20.400

* good defence configuration against mouted archers
* recruitment and support is very fast
* this configuration will need a lot of iron

In peace time you can choose to make defenses only with "Infantry" since they are most powerful
... but in war time it will be difficult to make defensive armies at the same rate as offensive armies
... so for that you will need to make heavy cavalry to balance the recruitment time of defence/offensive armies
... and also to support your villages more quickly

Stolen from shrvn, a player on world 28.[/

and for combat:

mamastoke said:
Axeman

The Axeman is a strong offensive unit.
They easily forget to protect themselves though.

Offensive strength - 40
Effective power - 40

*
$graphic\unit\speed.png$
Speed - 18 minutes per field
*

Resources -

60

30

40

Light cavalry

The light cavalry is a good offensive unit.
One of its advantages is it's speed.

Offensive strength - 130
Effective power - 32.5

*
$graphic\unit\speed.png$
Speed - 10 minutes per field
*

Resources -

125

100

250

Mounted archer

The mounted archer is especially useful to disable your enemies archers on the walls.

Offensive strength - 120
Effective power - 24

*
$graphic\unit\speed.png$
Speed - 10 minutes per field
*

Resources -

250

100

150

Ram

Rams support your troops in your attacks as it damages your enemies' walls.

Offensive strength - 2
Effective power - 0.4

*
$graphic\unit\speed.png$
Speed - 30 minutes per field
*

Resources -

300

200

200

----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Offensive Configuration

(A.1.)

Only Axes

19.500

230

Farm space: 20.650

Offensive power against spears - 100%
Offensive power against swords - 40%
Offensive power against archers - 40%
Offensive power against Heavy Cavalry - 73%

* Very good to kill spears

(A.2.)

Only Light Cavalry

4875

230

Farm space: 20.650

Offensive power against spears - 34%
Offensive power against swords - 100%
Offensive power against archers - 41%
Offensive power against Heavy Cavalry - 100%

* Very good to kill swords and Heavy Cavalry

(A.3.)

Only Mounted archer

3900

230

Farm space: 20.650

Offensive power against spears - 73%
Offensive power against swords - 26%
Offensive power against archers - 100%
Offensive power against Heavy Cavalry - 40%

* Very good to kill archears

(B.1.)

Axes and Light Cavalry - [2 : 1]

6.500

3.250

230

Farm space: 20.650

Offensive power against spears - 88%
Offensive power against swords - 100%
Offensive power against archers - 41%
Offensive power against Heavy Cavalry - 100%

* Very good to kill swords and Heavy Cavalry and also good to kill spears
* Bad to kill archears

(B.2.)

Axes and Light Cavalry [4 : 1]

9.500

2.500

230

Farm space: 20.650

Offensive power against spears - 100%
Offensive power against swords - 100%
Offensive power against archers - 41%
Offensive power against Heavy Cavalry - 100%

* Very good to kill spears/swords and Heavy Cavalry
* Bad to kill archears

(C.1.)

Light Cavalry and Mounted archer [2.5 : 1]

3.250

1.300

230

Farm space: 20.650

Offensive power against spears - 49%
Offensive power against swords - 100%
Offensive power against archers - 100%
Offensive power against Heavy Cavalry - 100%

* Very good to kill swords/archers and Heavy Cavalry
* Bad to kill spears

(C.2.)

Light Cavalry and Mounted archer [1.3 : 1]

2.500

1.900

230

Farm space: 20.650

Offensive power against spears - 55%
Offensive power against swords - 94%
Offensive power against archers - 100%
Offensive power against Heavy Cavalry - 100%

* Very good to kill archers and Heavy Cavalry and also good to kill swords
* Bad to kill spears

(D.1.)

Axes and Light Cavalry and Mounted archer

5.000

2.500

900

230

Farm space: 20.650

Offensive power against spears - 85%
Offensive power against swords - 100%
Offensive power against archers - 100%
Offensive power against Heavy Cavalry - 100%

* Very good to kill swords/archers and Heavy Cavalry
* Not bad to kill spears

(D.2.)

Axes and Light Cavalry and Mounted archer

7.000

2.500

500

230

Farm space: 20.650

Offensive power against spears - 100%
Offensive power against swords - 100%
Offensive power against archers - 74%
Offensive power against Heavy Cavalry - 100%

* Very good to kill spears/swords and Heavy Cavalry
* Not bad to kill archers

(D.3.)

Axes and Light Cavalry and Mounted archer

6.000

2.500

700

230

Farm space: 20.650

Offensive power against spears - 94%
Offensive power against swords - 100%
Offensive power against archers - 96%
Offensive power against Heavy Cavalry - 100%

* Very good to kill swords and Heavy Cavalry and also good to kill spears/archers

Recommended Offensive Armies to Play

* Specialyzed villages:

If you like to play with villages with only one type of offensive unit I recommend you to play with armies A.1. and A.2. and A.3.
When you know the type of defence configurtion that your enemy have this option [A.1. A.2. A.3.] it´s the best.
You can use the offensive unit more powerfull against him.
But I just want you to know that making only one type of offensive unit in one village take alot of time.

* Combo villages:

If you want to make 2 types of units in each offensive village you can use one good combination.
I recommend you to play with B.2. and C.2.
B.2. army is strong where C.2. army is weak and C.2. army is strong where B.2. army is weak.
Some players dont like to make axes and Mounted archers in the same village so here is one good option.

* Only one type of offensive army:

If you dont have time or patience to make different offensive armies I recommend you to play with D.3. army.
D.3. army is very solid against all type of defensive units
It´s not very strong but have one advantage ... don't have any weakness.
With D.3 army you can strike without scouting before because he will basically kill what the village has there.

I borrowed (without return) this off a player on world 28, shrvn, it is not mine... But it is useful, so i nicked it .

DeletedUser · Mar 7, 2009

How long did that take you :icon_neutral:

DeletedUser · Mar 7, 2009

CaptSummers said:
Originally posted by mamastoke

.

But that wasn't my point.
Do you know what luck and morale these simulations use? Also a wall level would be helpful.

DeletedUser · Mar 7, 2009

can you not make guides if you don't know what you're talking about?

DeletedUser · Mar 7, 2009

They're still great guides.

DeletedUser · Mar 7, 2009

but not the best. good < best, and people use best.

Warfare - The Advanced Way :)

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